The Samaria Gorge
On the southern side of the Omalos plateau, the
Samaria National Park was established to protect the endemic flora and fauna of this fascinating region that encompasses Europe's longest gorge and a number of smaller gorges. It is one of the two remaining habitats to the Cretan wild goat or Kri-Kri (
Capra aegagrus cretica) that lives in secluded hollows on the mountainside. The Kri-Kri are usually seen in the afternoon but their shyness makes it unlikely to glimpse one. Unfortunately, there are only about 2000 animals remaining on the entire island and they face an insecure future: hunters still seek them for their tender meat, grazing grounds have become more scarce and disease is a harsh reality for these beautiful creatures. Other endemic animal species include the Cretan badger, the Cretan marten, the Cretan spiny mouse, and the Cretan weasel. Only the fortunate will see some the the rarest birds of Europe such as the griffon vulture (
Gyps fulvus) and the lammergeier (
Gypaetus barbatus). Bonelli's eagle (
Hieraaetus fasciatus) and the golden eagle (
Aquila chrysaetos) are sometimes sighted here as well.
The 18 km hike through the Samaria Gorge begins at Xyloskalo on the Omalos plateau 1200 m high. To the south is a majestic view of Mt. Gygilos with its lunar landscape that is of great interest to rock climbers. Sheer cliffs and mighty peaks surround the fertile highland plain of Omalos where ancient olive trees still grow. Below, the great gash of the
Samaria gorge was carved by mountain torrents making their way steeply to the Libyan Sea. According to Greek mythology, one of the Titans living on
Crete slashed the land with his knife to create the gorge while Cretan-born Zeus, the god of the heavens, placed his throne on top of Mt. Gygilos and raced his chariot on the nearby mountain plain of Angathoti.
A well-maintained path drops down to the bottom of the gorge through a fragrant forest of pine and cypress trees. Along the way, there are many species of flora, some of which are endemic to Crete and found only in this gorge. Wild herbs that grow profusely in the nooks and crannies of the cliffs, release their fragrance with only the slightest touch. Some think that the Cretan climate encourages a higher concentration of essential oils in the plants, resulting in the flavorful food and good health for which Cretans are renowned. Although this area has been relatively isolated, remnants of ancient settlements exist. The Sanctuary and Oracle of Apollo are believed to be located under the church of Aghios Nikolaos and in the vicinity of Afentis Christos. The more recent
Samaria settlement which was abandoned when the gorge was proclaimed to be a National Park can also be explored. Nearby is the church that was dedicated to Saint Maria of Egypt after whom the gorge and settlement were named.
Farther along, the narrowest point in the gorge is reached. Known as "Portes" or "The Gates," it is the most photographed part of the gorge because steep cliffs rise dramatically to a height of over 300m with a very narrow passage of only 3.5m. This is one of the areas where, in early spring, hikers may have to wade through the stream because the water level is higher from the melting snow. The southern boundary of the National Park ends just north of Old
Agia Roumeli. There are kiosks that sell refreshments and souvenirs including the prized
Samaria Gorge thyme honey. From here, it is a short walk to Agia Roumeli where it is possible to enjoy a refreshing swim before catching the ferry to
Hora Sfakion.
Hiking the Samaria Gorge takes about 5-6 hours. From
Hania, numerous tour buses will drop you off at Xyloskalo and pick you up at Hora Skafion. Your hotel tour desk can usually arrange this for you. Private arrangements can also be made. If you have a group of four or more, this will often be less expensive and much more convenient. Allocate about $50 per person for transportation from Hania to Xyloskalo, park entry fees, ferry from Agia Roumeli to Hora Skafion and the return trip to Hania. The entire trip takes about 12-14 hours. Be sure to check the ferry schedule before starting your hike.