
Crete map - GREECE
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Beyond Spili the road drops down to the resort at Agia Galini, unless you take a west turn to the famous monastery at Preveli. The approach is though the Kourtaliotko Ravine, a spectacular gorge with near vertical cliffs each side and a tiny church build into the west wall. An arched bridge spans the Megapotamos River, one of five on the island which does not run dry even in high summer, and the steep, winding road snakes up past the ruined monastery of Agios Ioannis abandoned in the 17th century. Preveli monastery itself is heralded by a huge tarmac car park built to accommodate the huge number of paying visitors. The monastery is noted for its role in the Battle of Crete when monks sheltered marooned allied troops before their evacuation by submarine from the shores below. Plaques and flags at the entrance testify to the sacrifice made by the monks who suffered 'ferocious' reprisals by the jackbooted Germans. Preveli monastery itself was subsequently looted and turned into a German outpost to prevent further allied escapes. Most of the buildings date from the 19th century and the architecture is nothing special. In fact, the place has a sad and scruffy air despite spectacular views over the Libyan Sea.
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The former monks' quarters resemble ramshackle stables and there is a tiny one-room museum which houses a few old clerical relics. A recent fire burned down many of the trees that once surrounded the place. The beach of Preveli, Finikas (Phoenix) as it is officially known, is situated at the southern coast of Crete, some 40 kilometers far from Rethymnon at the South. It is a unique sandy beach, very beautiful, with a forest of palm trees, which make it quite exotic. The mouth of the river Kourtaliotis is at this beach; the river has enough water even in summer, and just before flowing into the sea it forms a small lagoon, thus, if you choose this beach for swimming, you might have the chance to bathe both in salted and sweet water! Walking up the river is a fascinating experience; the palm trees grown on the banks of the river give a rich shade and the soil is even and sandy. In times you may think that you are in an African oasis. Due to this scenic and unusual landscape, the beach is a very popular destination since the 70's when the hippies used to camp here, making huts from the leaves of the palm trees, a practice that went on until the end of the 80's. Preveli beach is open to the South and affected by the southern winds.
Fortunately, this small paradise is not very organised; there are some facilities for food and drink but not for accommodation. The last few years there used to be also facilities for swimming and sunbathing (sunbeds and umbrellas), but it seems that recently it has been decided to remove them, in order to keep this unique environment as natural as possible
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Preveli map - Crete
There are two ways to access the beach, the comfortable one and the hard one. If you choose the former, you have to go to Plakias (by bus or by private means) and catch the boat that makes the daily excursion to Preveli. It departs at about 10.00 in the morning and returns at about 4.00 in the afternoon. You will arrive at the beach without being tired, but you will miss the view of the beach from above, which is extraordinary. The hard way is to drive to the Preveli Monastery (by private means), leave your car at the parking some 1,5 kilometer from the Monastery (the parking is signed) and then start walking (or, better, hiking) down the path with many steep steps. Descending is easy enough, but then you have to climb up, and this is the difficult part of the story. It will take you some half an hour to descend and some more to climb back. If you choose the hard way, don't forget to take water with you and cover your head, as the sun is burning a lot especially from 11.00 to 16.00. Although difficult, this way of getting to the beach will reward you with a marvelous view of the beach from above.
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