Centred around a tree-shaded square, housing a couple of cafés and the handsome village church, Kalives has a good choice of authentic local tavernas serving wholesome fare, and a number of small shops which cater for most needs. Life in Almirida revolves around the beach and the half-dozen tavernas above the sea. No surprise, then that the area around Almirida is developing fast; but this does mean that, as opposed to a few years ago, the village now has several café-bars, a bakery and two minimarkets.
Last summer windsurfers, catamarans and sea-kayaks could be rented, subject to availability.
From both Almirida and Kalives bicycles can be hired, excursions operate (via Kalives), there is a bus to Chania (note, limited service before mid-June) and taxis are available – for further exploration a car is a good idea. But we think most won’t want to stray too far from either of these simple, friendly and delightfully relaxing little spots. Further to the east, 20 minutes drive beyond historic Rethymnon, the atmospheric village of Panormos is a gem. It seems to have everything we look for – two good sandy beaches, a photogenic harbour (with church above and tavernas to each side) and, above all, a true Greek village atmosphere. Yet, remarkably for such a pretty place, foreign tourism here is still pretty low-key and there is only one hotel of any size.
Panormos has some ten tavernas and a good selection of small shops in the narrow streets leading down to the harbour and beach (a second beach, also of fine sand, is a ten minute walk away). For brighter lights Rethymnon can be easily reached by the frequent local bus service, or even by the ‘road-train’ which starts here and also runs to villages in the hills behind. We think you will be as pleasantly surprised as we were to find such an unspoilt, attractive and still-authentic spot on such a popular coastline. |
